Final Weeks in Pakistan

Yasin valley looking north to Darkot

Let's see now...at the end of my last post we (Rob, Alex and myself) had ended up in Skardu after an amazing jeep safari across the Deosai Plains. Skardu was a hub of activity with climbers from around the world preparing for their expeditions into the great Baltoro glacier area of 8000 m peaks. Unfortunately the weather conditions were not great for flying so we decided in the end to head back west to Gilgit and onwards to Yasin Valley. Alex was short on time left in Pakistan as well and we were keen to fly with him which also added weight to our decision to go to Yasin.

After a two-day epic journey we arrived to perfect weather on June 29. So began a period of great flying! The next morning, after a night at the Government Guest House in Yasin, we were up early for breakfast and started off with our porters on an hour and half hike up to takeoff. The sun was blisteringly hot and the going quite steep but we all arrived around mid morning ready to set up for our flight. Getting ready was a real struggle. Everything needed to be laid out according to an order of preparation. First the oxygen system needed to be fitted to the flight deck, then the radio attached to the harness, sleeping bag and mat fitted under the harness, warm clothing laid out to be put on just before takeoff, the wing and lines checked, over-mitts checked and ready for use..the list just went on and on (I was at least 10 kg over the weight range for my wing with all my gear!). The key was not to get overheated so it was imperative that once the warm clothing was on it was time to go quickly! There was nothing worse that overheating on takeoff and freezing at 6500 m!

Surreal mountains at Darkot

The whole process took me at least 20 minutes so I was finally ready to fly around 11.30am. The day looked great, a large cumulus cloud was forming directly above us so it was time to launch. A quick pull on the A-risers saw the wing rise smoothly overhead, check, turn and power run-off and I was flying...relief at getting away safely!

Soon we were hooked into our rising thermal which took us from 3000m to 6000m just below cloud base! Wow the view was spectacular. The whole valley opened up and our objective could be seen 30 kms to the north. There the village of Darkot lay snuggled in a surreal surrounding of high mountains and glaciers. Rob had circumnavigated the big Ghamubar Zom mountain to the south of the village in 2010 and I was keen to have a go flying in the area. The day looked great to do so.

An hour and a half later I arrived to Darkot and it was incredible. I flew over several glaciers, saw an avalanche take place, whooped with joy at being there and generally took in the breathtaking view. After a while it was time to return, which we all did, to land at our friend Adil's home (the local policeman) who had insisted that we stay with him as we had done in 2010. Again we were treated like royalty, food and drink arrived as we made ourselves comfortable after our four-hour flights.

However the day was far from finished. I was “selected” by Adil to be the Chief Guest of the final football match for the Valley (Rob and Alex politely declined the position). It was an amazing time at the match sitting and chatting with the dignitaries and I was definitely getting into this VIP stuff. Then at the end of the match and after the dancing and festivities I was introduced as “Mister Grey” the famous footballer from New Zealand and asked to say a few words to the crowd below. I can't remember exactly what I said but in the end I shouted out that football was alive and thriving in Yasin Valley much to the delight of the crowd! Wow what a finish to the day! Sleep came easily that night.

Bivy spot in the Ishkomen valley 4200m

We were on a roll now and the next day it was decided that we would attempt to fly east over the Asumber Pass (4500m) into the Ishkomen Valley and then if the weather permitted onwards to Karimabad in the Hunza Valley. The day was perfect as we launched again from the Yasin take-off. This time we crossed east and followed a long side valley leading up to the pass. There were no roads, only a faint discernible track far below that eventually petered out in the snow and ice over the pass. Fortunately we had plenty of height and made it safely across following down the glacier on the other side into the Ishkomen valley. After some time flying around and heading east onwards to the next valley pass we made a decision to return to the Ishkomen valley to bivy for the night. This pass was showing ominous signs of cloud over-development (thunder storm) so the only safe option was to retreat. From the east side we transitioned across to the west to a bivy spot at 4200m. We all landed safely in the late afternoon, organised our food and sleeping gear in a nice spot and got some snow melt in the pot for a welcome cup of tea!

View from vour bivy in Ishkomen

Socialising at the Shandur Pass Polo Festival

We were extremely lucky the next day awakening to a gorgeous morning. Our takeoff was only 50 m higher that our bivy spot as we waited for the right time to launch. Soon we were whisked into the sky quickly moving east to the pass that we had turned back from the previous day. This pass was more of a serious mission, it was extensive and completely covered in ice and snow... not a place to go down and land! I'm sure I was hyperventilating with tension for at least 15 minutes as I glided across the wonderland. Thank goodness we all made it across to the safety of the next valley. We were on our way! And within a few hours we were circling high above Karimabad, happy to have made our objective some 120 km from Yasin!

The next few days saw us bivy back to Yasin from Karimabad, then onwards 75 kms to the Shandur Pass for the famous high altitude polo festival. Here we meet up with other foreign pilots in the country (9 of us in the end) along with the local pilots from Chitral and Booni and Sajjad and other pilots from Islamabad. It was a great three day event, all we had to do was fly over the polo grounds to the delight of the crowds, socialise non-stop and have a great time!. Sajjad Shah did a fabulous job organising everything from the tents we slept in to the food that was prepared! It was especially great to catch up with him, Farhad, Sajid, Meraj, Gullam, Sadam, Babar, Mughtasim, Muzafar and all the other great Pakistan pilots!

Runaway goal at Shandur

After a hectic three days (and by the way the polo was superb!) we were back in the air for a return to Karimabad. Rob and I made it two days later, then Brad arrived the following day after epic flying which included a southern leg close to Nanga Parbat... a first! What a pilot! And then followed Pierre and Olivier (from France) along with Manzoor (our trusty jeep driver/guide). We had a happy celebration dinner that night with all of us back at our favourite base. By chance it was the Aga Khan's birthday celebration and we were thoroughly entertained in the evening with the Ishmali tradition of 100's of high altitude bonfires and tyres alight with diesel rolling down the mountainsides all to the music of the Hunza region...quite spectacular and very unusual!

Brad and Meraj at Shandur

Our two Scottish friends, Julian and Daniel, who we had travelled together with for the past two weeks had decided to carry on west from Shandur and had ended up in Booni for their first visit there. They had planned to fly in the Chitral area for a week or so.

Over this incredible flying period of 10 or so days I worked out that we had flown more than 500 kms, bivyed for 5 nights and had experienced the best flying ever.

Me happy in the air!

But the icing on the cake was yet to come. On my last flying day, July 12, I was able to fly high above Lady Finger (6000m), soar up Hunza Peak and then cross over the valley to Diran (7250m)... flying up and close to the mountain before returning after 4 hours to Karimabad... It was an unforgettable end to a wonderful two months in northern Pakistan! It was also a height record for me, climbing to 6879m... not quite 7000m but near enough!

Now I'm back in Rawalpindi waiting for my flight on the 17^th to Istanbul. I can reflect on my time here in Pakistan, what a wonderland northern Pakistan is. Unfortunately since 9-11 tourism in Pakistan has fallen away to a trickle (with the exception of climbing parties to the great peaks). Karimabad, which was once a thriving tourist trekking centre, is now a quiet sleepy village, pining for the good old days. But will the good ole days actually return? Perhaps if things settled down politically and the country becomes more stable and less corrupt then yes I do believe that Pakistan has a future with tourism. But the signs are not great; escalating sectarian violence and murder, blatant corruption within government, bad international press, border skirmishes with Afghanistan and India, American intrusion and subsequent disaffection, Taliban influences etc. all combine to paint a bleak future for an otherwise hospitable country. The average Pakistani just wants peace and prosperity as we all do! May Allah find a way forward for this country!

Well my friends, this is my last attempt at a blog....I hope you have enjoyed a bit of an insight into my last two months here in Pakistan. I hope I have painted a positive picture of the people and their country! This is an amazing place, and I for one will be back again flying in the big mountains!

Unfortunately I haven't been able to catch up with all of you with your news during my time in Pakistan so I wait eagerly for contact from you! I'll be in Eastern Europe soon, first in Bulgaria, then the Polish Open in Macedonia, maybe a peak into Slovenia and then on to Austria, Germany and finally Italy....should be a great two months to come...send me an email when you can...all the best from me...Grey

Notes:

Rob's blog is parakiwi.blogspot.com and Alex's blog is ayashko.blogspot.com

you can see all my flights on Leonardo:

http://paraglidingforum.com/leonardo/tracks/world/alltimes/brand:all,cat:0,class:all,xctype:all,club:all,pilot:0_17232,takeoff:all